The Sultan of Stonemasonry, Umm Qais, Jordan

Written By: Gail Clifford | Published By: Weekend Notes | October 17, 2022

https://www.weekendnotes.com/umm-qais-jordan/?ap=1rjNxEj0FJ&wuid=960198&sb=1&wuf=1

When you visit Umm Qais in Jordan, schedule to meet with the local stonemason for a lesson, to meet the Sultan and Abdullah al Rousan, a father and son who make stonework a large part of their life. Sultan, 61 years, has worked in stone for 35 years. Abdullah, 21, started to work in stone with his father five years ago. He is a university student studying computer science but couldn’t imagine allowing his father’s craft to die out. They are proud, hospitable men, as are all the gentlemen we’ve met within Jordan’s tourism industry.

Stonemasonry remains one of the oldest crafts in history, dating from the Neolithic Period, aka the Stone Age, 12,000 years ago when humans began arranging rocks into shelters. Since then, stonemasons hone their craft, cutting and preparing stones to both build and repair structures including homes, monuments, statues, headstones, and historical buildings.

They explain a little about the stonemasonry but quickly go to the universal language of show don’t tell. While Sultan’s English is limited, through an interpreter, it’s obvious he is a very generous gentleman. He patiently shows his students how to carve figures into limestone, and shows the different tools, including mallets and chisels, for carving both limestone and basalt. Limestone is softer.

He helps his students form a square and then a circle and finally a triangle before taking the class inside and has you sit at a long table to draw your own figure on a tile to work yourself. The curves are easily taken by him – students cause some small chips to occur, but he smiles, re-orients your hands – you never do really see where you’re trying to send the tool as you attempt a curve – and complete the assigned task.

Try to mimic his positioning, just a little lower angle and begin – time to tap the back of the instrument with the edge of the mallet – the side (not the tip or the end) and watch for the flying dust and chips. It’s important to be wearing eye protection when doing this.

He smiles at each attempt, ever the gracious host, and eventually points the class in the direction of his original workroom

He guides students to the long table – gesturing each to take a seat in front of a workboard. It has a strong edge to hold the piece of tile. Use the pencil to draw upon the tile – as simple or complex as you dare.

Either Sultan or Abdullah helps each student independently. After your forms are carved as completely as you can, you will be offered greens from outside to rub across the face of the carving. Sultan shares that this turns a brownish gold if you leave it outside, especially in the sun.

It takes about 30 minutes to complete the task and finish by rubbing the green from just outside the door over the tile.

Be sure to take the tile with you – he’ll chase you down to return it and want you to have this uniquely Jordanian souvenir.