Exploring Dublin’s Royal Canal: A Journey Through Time and Nature

by Gail CliffordSep 30, 2024Art, Dublin, Educational, Europe, Ireland, Outdoor0 comments

Exploring Dublin’s Royal Canal: A Journey Through Time and Nature

Written By: Gail Clifford | Published By: Weekend Notes | August 30, 2024

Exploring Dublins Royal Canal

On a blustery summer evening during Ireland’s Heritage Week 2024, we embarked on an unforgettable journey along Dublin’s Royal Canal, guided by none other than the eminent historian and author Peter Clarke. This walk, beginning at the historic Cross Guns Bridge in Phibsborough and winding our way towards Binns Bridge, Newcomen Bridge, and finally to Broadstone, was not just a stroll through the city but a step back in time. The experience was enriched by Clarke’s extensive knowledge, far surpassing the details in his well-regarded book, The Royal Canal: The Complete Story.

Starting the Journey: Cross Guns Bridge and the 5th Lock

Our adventure began with a short city bus ride to Cross Guns Bridge, where we eagerly gathered to meet Peter Clarke. His enthusiasm for the canal’s history was infectious from the moment we met.

Clarke shared insights into the painstaking efforts involved in restoring this historic waterway, originally constructed in the late 18th century. Stretching an impressive 90.5 miles (145.7 km) from the River Liffey in Dublin to the River Shannon at Clondra in County Longford, the Royal Canal was once a crucial transport route. However, it had fallen into disrepair before being revived by dedicated volunteers and organizations like the Royal Canal Amenity Group.

At Cross Guns Bridge, with the 5th lock of the canal before us, Clarke explained how the canal rises out of the city by a series of locks and levels, much like a grand staircase ascending toward history. This lock, along with others, had to be rebuilt due to poor workmanship during the canal’s original construction—a problem not entirely unfamiliar to Clarke and his fellow volunteers during the restoration process.

The Legacy of Sir William Glendowe Newcomen
As we continued our walk toward Binns Bridge, Clarke shared the intriguing story of Sir William Glendowe Newcomen, a figure whose legacy is deeply intertwined with the history of the Royal Canal. In 1773, William Glendowe, a young and ambitious banker from Dublin, married Charlotte Newcomen, a woman of considerable wealth and influence from Carriglas, County Longford. In a strategic move that reflected his ambitions, William took on his wife’s surname, becoming Sir William Glendowe Newcomen. This marriage not only provided him with significant financial resources but also opened doors to political and social influence. With Charlotte’s fortune, Sir William quickly established himself in the banking world, securing a seat in the Irish Parliament, a Privy Councillorship, and even a Baronetcy. However, his rise was not without controversy—particularly when his bank offered a crucial loan to the financially troubled Royal Canal Company at an exorbitant 30% interest rate. This act earned him both criticism and a lasting, if somewhat tarnished, place in history.

Exploring Dublin’s Royal Canal Grand Canal Basin Vertical Lock with waterfall

Binns Bridge: A Legacy of Scandal
Our path led us next to Binns Bridge, where the Dublin to Belfast road crosses the canal. Named after John Binns, the founder of the Royal Canal Company, this bridge carries a legacy as complicated as the man himself. Binns, a silk merchant and politician, was responsible for the initial—and somewhat dubious—documentation that got the canal project off the ground. It wasn’t until six years into construction that it was discovered the estimates for the canal’s cost were forged, with no real survey ever conducted. Binns had, in fact, concocted the figures based on work done on the Grand Canal, leading to the financial disaster that would haunt the Royal Canal’s early years. Despite this, the bridge stands as a reminder of the turbulent yet fascinating history of the canal.